PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK HOLIDAY 2011: LUXEWEAR
Day 5 of Philippine Fashion Week Holiday 2011 opened with the Luxewear segment, featuring Benjie Manuel, Delby Bragais, Edwin Uy, Jay Sustiguer, John Guarnes, Julius Tarog, Kat Corpus, Melvin Lachica, Nicky Martinez, Nolie Viñeza, Roel Rosal, Ronaldo Arnaldo, Santi Obcena, Simon Ariel Vasquez, and Tina Daniac.
The fifteen Luxewear designers drew from an assortment of inspirations and influences for their respective outings, largely showing a collage of womens- and menswear in diverse colors, simple silhouettes, and workable styles. Among the fifteen names, however, three stood out for their cohesive, articulate collections that spoke of distinct stimuli and motivations. These are:
This designer's easy, tailored designs and clean execution have had our attention since we first saw him in Fashion Week, and this season, he didn't fail to deliver. Presenting a ten-strong collection of menswear-inspired garments for women cut from leather, wool, cotton pique, duchesse satin, tulle, and chiffon, Julius revealed a favoring streak for androgyny and quirky tailoring details that toughen and liven regular workwear staples. Blazer lapels are diminished in size or are otherwise emphasized, or manipulated in such a way as to add volume and dimension to top-centric looks that are styled with sheer-hemmed skirts or basic trousers.
Veering away from the colorful opacity of his jersey and macramé stunners last season, Melvin held us captive this time with ultra-sheer, ethereal confections cut from sand- and stone-colored stretch tulle with necklines embellished with suede paper toile folded into architectural designs. There is a distinct juxtaposition between the diaphanous skirting of the gowns and the sharp folds and piled-on texture of the fabric ornamentation, and considering how flowy and amorphous the skirts are, Melvin was still able to showcase the feminine form as it comes through against the dreamy fabric, buffeted by wind and shaped by movement.
Ronaldo Arnaldo showed a lineup comprised of heavily constructed coats and jackets and fluid, silken tops atop straight trousers and voluminous skirts, styled in such a way that recalls Haider Ackermann's Fall 2011 collection. He took a cue from Ackermann even when it came to the gloves! The collection, called "The Legionnaire," presents Ronaldo's current preoccupation with contrasts: "It's all about contrasts or details from opposite sides of the pole," he says, "like long over short, matte versus shiny, plain versus texture, etc." Overall, the composition of the ensembles and the interesting design and styling bits of each runway look make for an interesting, highly stylized outing.
Click on the following links to view the Holiday 2011 collections of the Luxewear designers: