designer spotlight

PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK HOLIDAY 2012: DESIGN FUSION, VISIONS & TRENDS, READY-TO-WEAR

Filipino designers' urban presentations grouped into one big show.
by Jae Pickrell / July 4, 2012
PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK HOLIDAY 2012: DESIGN FUSION, VISIONS & TRENDS, READY-TO-WEAR

Fifteen designers presented their visions on the last day of Philippine Fashion Week Holiday 2012 under three different categories. Read about their offerings here.

DESIGN FUSION

Iloilo-based designer Bo Parcon veered away from the urban streetwear we have been used to seeing from him, presenting instead a more feminine collection that lacks the usual edge and attitude permeating his designs. But what this outing lacks in raw toughness it made up for in graphic bravura: in-your-face houndstooth imparted a strong bite underneath strips of gunmetal fabric that were carefully curled and woven into ornate embellishment.

Meanwhile, PEFTA alum Enrico Carado also stuck with a monochromatic palette to best display his latest design inspiration: plumage. Culling inspiration from our fine-feathered friends, he assembled fabric plumes to decorate black and white dresses in girlish silhouettes, most of which incorporated one of the season's hottest trends, the peplum. Worthy of note are also the vertiginous platforms the designer commissioned for the show. High in stature, glitz, and drama, the fierce stompers added visual impact and attitude to the outing, restating once again that the Enrico Carado woman is no lame duck when it comes to fashion.

The last of the bunch, Jaki Peñalosa revisited a favorite concept: ethnicism. While in the past Jaki's tribal overtures have been embodied in rich metallic fabrics, this season she leant on the ethereal nature of piña to capture the soft and silken drama of her cocktail designs.

Click on the following links to view the designers' collections:

Bo Parcon

Enrico Carado

Jaki Peñalosa

VISIONS & TRENDS

Happy Andrada's show could've easily passed under PFW's Grand Allure category if only for the spectacle of it all. Her white ladies roamed the runway in diaphanous, ghostly designs whose craftsmanship belie this young designer's tenure in the industry. Full of fantastical texture and design details that invite the eye to luxuriate while beholding the garments, Happy's latest outing thoroughly conveys her otherworldly inspiration as much as it exhibits her adeptness in execution and construction.

Jan Garcia has never been one to shy away from techy influences, often peppering his collections with metallic elements that allude to sci-fi motifs. While this collection might not be as tech-centered as his past ones, it doesn't fail in the avant-garde department that is the recurring office of his presentations. Outlandish silhouettes, fantastical styling—for Jan, fashion is a game best played in realms outside of quotidian dressing.

Oz Go fell in love with gradations this season, dashing his garments with ombré hues that playfully colored his outfits. While most ensembles were striking enough to ensure interest from bold purveyors of fashion, we cannot help but harp on the importance of proper construction over visual impact. One poorly executed jacket left a model looking unfortunate as she sashayed bare-chested on the catwalk. A gentle reminder to all designers: as much as the fashion-obsessed love to push the envelope of what's de rigueur or normal when it comes to individualistic dressing, impeccable fit is always a priority.

Another mélange of textures barreled down the catwalk as Regine Dulay's models entered the stage in a clamor for tactile attention: winding cords here, zipped up pouches over there, a flurry of wispy layers in between. Our undisputed favorite is the grid-like sculpture overlaid a simple black bustier dress—it addresses timeless femininity as much as it speaks to futuristic design, all in one meticulously executed garment.

Lastly, Russell Villafuerte served up more attitude via his pleather and tulle dresses, bridging rock 'n roll glam with ladylike romanticism. The collection had plenty of good things in its favor, ensuring it would be snapped up in a jiffy: sexy silhouettes, sequins, slits, and sheer skirting—a handful of sultry sibilants that, for Russell, could only spell s-o-l-d.

Click on the following links to view the designers' collections:

Happy Andrada

Jan Garcia

Oz Go

Regine Dulay

Russell Villafuerte

READY-TO-WEAR

PFW's Ready-to-Wear show would not be complete with its usual band of rogue designers presenting zany manners of dress. Among the offerings this season were Jian Lasala's all-white collection of boxy-shouldered, cut away from the body dresses; Harley Ruedas's floral printed, filigreed, and sequined denim ensembles;and John Guarnes's furry and satiny evening wear. Among the cooler picks: Emi Alexander Englis's sweater dresses, and Mike Lavarez's and Nixon Marquez's urban staples.

Click on the following links to view the designers' collections:

Dave Ocampo

Emi Alexander Englis

Harley Ruedas

Jian Lasala

John Guarnes

Mike Lavarez

Nixon Marquez

Click here for more on Philippine Fashion Week Holiday 2012!

TAGS: philippine fashion week, philippine fashion designer, philippine fashion, ready-to-wear, philippine fashion week holiday 2012, design fusion, visions & trends
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