designer spotlight
PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK HOLIDAY 2012: LUXEWEAR
Being cooped up with such a long list of fellow designers for one one-hour show must have been quite a challenge for some of the following designers: Anthony Ramirez, Aztec Barba, Dax Bayani, Joyce Pilarsky, Julius Tarog, Lyle Ibañez, Mark Tamayo, Melvin Lachica, Nolie Viñeza, Pablo Cabahug, Popoy Barba, Richard Papa, Roel Rosal, Tina Daniac, and Vania Romoff. With such an extended lineup, keeping the audience riveted—or even just sustaining their attention—is a massive feat. Luckily, most designers did just that, albeit some better than others.
As diverse as the concepts and motifs of the fifteen designers, there were several design elements that jumped out as unifying trends in the Luxewear show. One of these is the undying mullet—the go-to silhouette of those wanting drama in the back and a party at the front. Anthony opened with a silken, scarlet, deliciously draped one, whose gashed skirt is echoed in his eighth ensemble; Nolie had an elaborate one cut from diaphanous layers of fabric; Pablo answered back in diaphanous layers, too, but in Prussian blue; while Tina skirted the issue in frothy lasercut.
Sheer was a big design element for some designers, too, even with the attendant lack of modesty it can cause if not bridled properly. Melvin's clothes were too sheer to merit off-the-runway dressing, with crotches and decollétes not properly covered with his material of choice, crinkled silk chiffon; Nolie was likewise generous with loose opacity with this tiered creation; Popoy incorporated organza into his dark ensembles; while Roel gave the side some exposure via the dotted sheer panels of his playfully tailored pieces.
For prints, there's Aztec to go to—his play on prints and fabric strips is a welcome palate cleanser from the usual over-the-top drama of the Luxewear show. For edgier cuts but unfailingly sexy silhouettes, reach out to Roel, whose woolen garments belie the fabric's weight and workaday identity with alluring apron cuts and sheer paneling. For evening wear updated with daring crop tops (there's even a terno version!), pick Pablo. For no-fail ladylike dresses for the Audrey Hepburn in you, we vouch for Vania. Lastly, for more wicked tailoring from an urbanite's perspective, see Julius' and Mark's collections.
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